You know that mysterious, smoky, earthy, spicy, just-plain-addictive flavor that you find in so many great Mexican dishes? The flavor you can never quite seem to match at home? This is it. Make up a batch of this incredible stuff, and you'll have instant authenticity any time you want it. Chipotles (chee-pote-lays) are jalapeño chiles that have been slowly dried over smoke. You can find them in Mexican markets, and even in some supermarkets, if you want to make this purée from scratch. But there is an easier way. Buy a can of high-quality chipotles en adobo-chiles marinated in a saucy paste of vinegar and spices-purée the contents in a blender. This is one of those rare occasions when something from a can tastes just as good as what you'd make from scratch. We can't do it, because of the whole "no cans" thing, But you…uh…can.

• 3 cups water
• 2 ounces dried chipotle chiles, stems removed
• 1 tablespoon achiote paste
• ½ cup tomato paste
• ½ cup firmly packed brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 2 tablespoons olive oil

Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan over high heat. Bring the mixture to a boil, decrease heat to medium-low, and simmer for 30-45 minutes. Remove from the heat, and cool completely. Purée the mixture in a blender or food processor until smooth. Store in an air-tight container in the refrigerator until ready to use or for up to 3 days.